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   Nordic and world braids and bands 2022


Traditional European loop braiding

Lecture - L11

Joy Boutrup

There is a tradition in Europe for using braids both functional and as decoration. The lecture will show examples of this and try to trace where and by whom the braids were produced. Braids are often just small parts of other textiles and not easy to locate in different collections. The hunt for braids to study and some characteristic structures and their analyses will be illustrated with photos and drawings.

Indonesian cardweaving

Lecture - L12

Keiko Kusakabe

Distribution of Tablet Weaving in Sulawesi, Indonesia

Dutch study of Indonesian textiles since early 20th century tells us that Sulawesi was the island where plentiful tablet weaving has been practiced.  This lecture shows the distribution of tablet-weaving in Sulawesi with photos in the power point and some actual tablet-woven bands and clothing on display.  These are dagger belts made by the Bugis in the lowlands, jackets with tablet-woven hems by Toraja people and betel bags with tablet-woven straps by Mamasa peoples in the highlands.  Among them, only the Mamasa continue to weave on the tablet loom today as others have lost the technique.  This lecture will focus on this sophisticated tablet-weaving technique as well as historical misunderstandings on the origin of some bands.

Photos: Left: Detail of old tablet-woven band from Tana Toraja, Indonesia (kamandang), home-spun cotton with natural dye.  Center: Bugis dagger belt, National Museum Indonesia. Right: Detail of old brocaded Bugis band, silk and silver thread.

Cords and braids in archaeology

Lecture - L13

Beatrix Nutz

Bands, cords and sprang in the 15th century Lengberg Finds

In the course of extensive reconstruction at Lengberg Castle in East‐Tyrol, Austria in 2008, archaeological investiga­tions of several parts of the building took place under the direction of Harald Stadler (Institute for Archaeologies, University of Innsbruck).  During the research, a filled vault was detected below the floorboards of a room on the second floor. The fill consisted of dry material, among them more than 2,700 textile fragments. The architectural history of the castle and the archaeological features date the finds to the 15th century. 

This date has been confirmed by five radio­carbon-dates. The material was probably dumped in the vault when another storey was added to the building by order of Virgil of Graben who became lord of the castle in 1480. Among the textile fragments were a few almost completely preserved pieces of garments such as a linen bra. There were also fragments of linen linings for three gowns: two for a small girl and one for an adult woman. In addition, fragments of three coifs were found. One of them with a central panel in sprang technique, a fingerloop-braided lace and needle lace.

This presentation will give an overview of the textile finds (fabrics, garments, textile tools and applied textile techniques) from the vault and show some reconstructions that can be viewed up close.

Bands for reconstructed Viking costume

 Lecture - L14

Charlotte Rimstad

Fashioning the Viking Age is a collaboration between the National Museum of Denmark, Lejre Land of Legends and Centre for Textile Research at the University of Copenhagen.

 The Viking Age is a popular period of the Scandinavian prehistory and both museums and living history centers are engaged in the dissemination of this fascinating period. Reconstructing Viking age clothes helps make history come alive, and the decorative woven bands on these clothes are unique and important. However, contrary to what many people think, this is not an easy task as the archaeological finds – on which the garments should be based – are often small and fragmented, poorly documented and hard to “translate” into whole garments from all parts of society.

The aim of this 3-year project is to create new and archaeologically well-founded interpretations and reconstructions of Viking Age textiles and clothing. In this project, we demonstrate and visualize the variation of the textiles’ qualities, based on preserved archaeological textile and tool material used in the Viking Age. From this knowledge we reconstructed two full high-status outfits. This lecture will focus on the garments’ braided and woven bands.