Iranian Band Weaving Techniques

Class - 2D5

Shahla Amini, Iran

 Shahla will explain two traditional Iranian band weaving techniques, and I will show samples and pictures of their use:

Tof bafi (Tof weaving): Normally in the process of weaving we have two basic elements (warp and weft) and a shed is the space between the warp that according to a draft, the weft will pass through and, by interchanging the warps, a cloth or a band will be made. But in this special technique the weft, which is a double or tripled metal thread, wraps around one or more warps (depending on the thickness of the warp) and appears on the surface of the band as a brocade. The warp remains uneven in between.  In fact there is no shed and only the warp keeps the brocade weft in place. This a very simple but so elegant band for ornamenting and it has been used for such function in our country for centuries.

Kosti bafi (kosti weaving): This a very unique way of weaving a sacred and symbolic belt. The weaving process is somewhat like backstrap and you will learn to make string heddles. But unlike backstrap weaving, four string heddles create two layers which will be joined by the weft and the band becomes a tubular structure (like a shoelace), traditionally used as a belt.

Each student brings:  Two G-clamps, metallic thread for the weft and cotton or wool thread for the warp (none of these should be very thin). For the second technique the equipment is the same, but the thread warp and weft should be white lambswool. Scissors, pen/pencil and colored pencils, notebook.

 Materials fee: no fee

  Weaving a Sámi Belt with a Sigga heddle

Class - 1D21

Susan Foulkes, UK

In this workshop you will learn to weave a Sámi belt with a traditional Sámi pattern using a Sigga heddle. A back strap will be provided as part of the workshop equipment.

The Sigga heddle takes up to 16 pattern threads and up to 55 background threads. The heddle will be ready warped, but you will be able to choose the colour of your pattern threads. The Sigga heddle produces pattern with ‘jumping’ pattern threads. Groups of pattern threads are picked up to produce the pattern on the surface. The underlying background weave is warp-faced plain weave.

Sámi band weaving wool is used for the warp and weft. The pattern threads are slightly thicker than the background threads. You will thread the coloured pattern threads of your choice then learn to weave: how to start weaving, how to change the weft, how to finish weaving. This heddle was designed by Stoorstalka after a request by a Sami weaving teacher, to make this type of weaving easier.

I will illustrate how these bands were woven traditionally using a standard heddle. The Sigga heddle is a great improvement. The one-day workshop is for participants who have some experience in weaving bands.

Photos: Sigga heddle with woven band: two patterns, one with one group of 12 pattern threads the second with one group of 8 and one group of 4. Two bands with different coloured pattern threads: one with 8 red and four green, the second with 8 green and four red.

Each student brings: Scissors and notebook. A camera would be useful. Please bring your own shuttle. The ideal shuttle for weaving is the Sámi Gepha shuttle. I realize that some of you may already have a Gehpa shuttle so please bring your own. If you require one, I will have Gepha shuttles for sale.

Materials fee: Dkr. 200. This fee includes:

1. A Sigga heddle for 16 pattern threads

2. Warp and weft in Sámi band weaving wool.

3. Booklet of instructions.

4. A handwoven, linen backstrap belt.

5. Clip it – to secure the warp around the belt.

Crossed-warp inkle technique

Class - 1D8

Marieke Kranenburg

In the Andes some Peruvian and Bolivian tribes weave narrow bands as decorative edge trims. The most common trim is a tubular band with an eye pattern. The technique used to make these trims is a combination of braiding and weaving. First you cross the warp threads and then you pull a weft through it. Less known are the flat bands you can make. In these flat bands diagonal-line designs can be made by crossing the warp threads in units of four. Each unit consists of two light threads and two dark threads. Two types of lines are possible: up toward the right and up toward the left. The simplest pattern is a zigzag made of eight warp threads. More complicated patterns can be made by making a broader warp or by making consecutive crosses.

In this workshop we start with the simple zigzag after which we continue with the more complicated patterns. The technique can be done on an inkle loom or backstrap.